All I can figure it goes over the control arm, but that can't be right because wouldn't it get crushed when you hit a bump? The line connecting from the front T-shaped connection to the master cylinder, how do you route this? I have the WW kit, and it's not long enough to run along the side of the pan than back up to the cylinder. Posted: Mon 10:46 pm Post subject: Brake line routing question This image not be exactly a VW MC but it is typical and maybe from it you can decide if assembly is correct.Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top does anyone know if there is some kind of diagram for this master cylinder i can look at to see if its put together right? tomorrow i will use a piece of wire and see if the piston is returning all the way. Ok so tonight i let it build up pressure and i loosened the line at the master cylinder and it released the pressure and the brake light turned off and pressure relieved. '91 Jetta 16v (<-this one has got to go-<<) Did you say that you rebuilt the master cylinder yourself? Maybe something went in wrong.ĭon't try to sell crazy here, because we're all stocked up. Like they said it is a clog in the master cylinder or a bad u-ring in the master cylinder. Using the turning brake pushes the fluid down line relieving the pressure upstream. That makes it sound like you have a problem with the master cylinder. After that, it's got to be between there and the calipers. Then, loosen the line after the turning brake, which will check if it's the turning brake holding the pressure. Rather than cracking a line at the brake bleeder, try to loosen the line(s) at the master cylinder, this will tell you if the issue is with the master cylinder. if its built up pressure and the brake lights are staying on, then you push the turning brake either way and the brake lights shut off. its mounted on the front hole on the master cylinder. on Fri 5:40 pm edited 1 time in totalĬorrect me if im wrong but if it was the turning brake than my brake light switch shouldnt be activated. Just because turning brake works (?) do not discount fact problem may be with turning brake. May be problem is between master cylinder and turning brake. so that tells me its deffinatly in the master cylinder itself. if i release the pressure and just use my turning break to stop it doesnt build up presure. I will have to check the hole with a piece of wire. "Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)Īll suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show. “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
SAMBA VW BETTLE BRAKE LINE PRESSURE HIT DAY FREE
And check free play you should be able to physically feel free play (with hand) when rod contacts inner bore of MC piston. IF any hoses on system are "old" replace them first before you monkey with "new" brake master cylinder. These cylinders have been manufactured the same way for 40 years I seriously doubt there is a problem there unless its dirt or debris in bore, you do have the boot on it?, ( or poor link rod adjustment) and not letting piston return fully. Find hole where fluid goes from reservoir into cylinder and use small wire or object and push it through hole (port) if it "drops in" more than about 1/8 inch the piston is clearing the port. Drain fluid out of reservoir and pull it off. Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley i wonder if it would help if i took that washer out so the piston would come back that extra 1/8 inch or so. there is a circlip that holds the piston in, and a washer between that and the piston. i ran all brand new brake lines when i put it back together about 2 monthes ago. The pushrod was the first thing i ajusted. If you do not know the history of the rear brake hoses (flexable) replace them.Įngle FK-41 with 1.25:1 street style rockers If the plunger is not allowed to come back to rest the system will not release pressure. Make sure there is clearance between the pedal push rod and the plunger on the master. IRS, Kingpin, 2 seat, hot rod pinto powered sand rail. am i using the wrong kind of brake fluid? also one day i didnt ride it at all and it sat in the sun and the brake lights came on like the heat made it build up pressure. i can go to the back and pop a bleeder and it lets the pressure off. if i pump the pedal it will build up pressure and the brake lights will stay on and the pedal is really hard. both holes that go down from the resivore are not blocked. I have had it apart twice now and cant find the problem. I have disc breaks on the back and a neal single handled cutting break. Posted: Thu 10:53 am Post subject: Brakes wont release pressure Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top
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